Absinthe is making an impressive comeback. The global market is projected to reach $40.2 billion by 2028, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 3%, according to The Business Research Company.
What is absinthe and is it safe?
Absinthe is a botanical spirit celebrated for its distinctive aniseed flavor. It is traditionally distilled using grand wormwood, green anise, and fennel seed—collectively known as ‘the Holy Trinity.’
While all distilled absinthes begin clear, the traditional green variant undergoes an infusion with additional botanicals to achieve its characteristic natural color derived from chlorophyll.
“Most people are familiar with Pernod – that was the first commercially produced absinthe in 1805,” states Jane Peyton, founder of the School of Booze and author of ‘The Philosophy of Cocktails,’ in a recent interview.
It’s important to note that absinthe was banned in numerous countries for nearly a century.
“Several European countries and the USA banned it in the early 20th century because they erroneously believed it caused hallucinations and contributed to an increase in crime and degenerate behavior,” Peyton elaborates.
“Wormwood contains a compound that in high levels can cause psychosis, but now science knows it is not present in sufficient quantities in absinthe to have an effect. The real issue behind absinthe was its high alcohol content, typically between 60-90%. Chronic alcohol abuse can lead to hallucinations.”
The bans on absinthe began to ease during various decades throughout the 20th century. Interestingly, the so-called ‘green fairy’ was never banned in the UK, which allowed for the creation of many classic cocktails there.
Nevertheless, absinthe is frequently associated with French culture. Notably, the famous artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec allegedly had a cocktail named after him, known as ‘Earthquake’ or ‘Tremblement de Terre.’
Toulouse-Lautrec’s struggle with alcoholism reportedly inspired him to have a special hollow cane made to discreetly carry glass vials of absinthe.
Why is absinthe growing in popularity?
The renewed interest in absinthe is partly attributed to a booming tourism industry, where travelers seek authentic absinthe experiences.
Furthermore, the ritual surrounding absinthe enhances its appeal, especially among consumers craving ‘Instagrammable’ moments.
“There is a ritual associated with drinking absinthe, which includes the ornate water fountain and the special absinthe spoon where a sugar cube sits for water to be dripped through. The green spirit then changes color and becomes an opaque yellow-green. Today’s consumers desire experiences while socializing, and absinthe fulfills that need. Additionally, its history of being banned carries a rebellious allure for contemporary audiences,” notes Peyton.
Growing investments in research and development focusing on enhancing absinthe’s unique characteristics and applications are expected to sustain its growth trajectory.
Notably, the UK welcomed Devil’s Botany in 2021, marking London’s first absinthe distillery. Unlike others that explored gin, rum, and whisky, founders Allison Crawbuck and Rhys Everett were captivated by the mystique of absinthe.
Their clear absinthe is crafted using methods synonymous with London Dry Gin and impressively does not cloud when diluted with water—a distinctive characteristic typically referred to as the ‘louche’ effect. This phenomenon usually occurs due to ingredients like fennel and star anise being insoluble.
In 2022, Never Distilling Co. introduced its new blend of contemporary and traditional botanicals with the launch of Australian Absinthe, featuring wormwood, sweet fennel, and lemon balm.
Major industry players are also entering the market with innovative offerings, such as Absinthia Barrel Aged Absinthe, brought to market by US-based Absinthia Bottled Spirits LLC in 2022. This barrel-aging process infuses honey, caramel, and vanilla notes into the spirit.
In 2023, Europe held the largest share of the absinthe market, while North America is projected to be the fastest-growing region.
